How to Patch an Unreachable Hole

[click for video]

Occasionally there will be damage to a spot in the cover that is really hard to get at. The approach and advice given here, for safety’s sake, is a 2 person job. If you have a double cover structure, first unplug the inflator fan.

You will need to attach a padded cross piece to a long ladder. This piece should be 50% longer than your structure hoop spacing. i.e. if you have 4’ spacing your attachment should be 6’ long. This cross piece should be located high enough so that when you lean the ladder against the building it will be making contact with the “bulge” of the hoop.

The base of the ladder will be quite a ways out from the building. It is important that the helper firmly anchor the base of the ladder so that it can not kick out from underneath the person climbing the ladder.

If the hole in the cover is past the top of the ladder, you can lean against a hoop while standing on the ladder.

The area of the cover damage must be dry and warm before trying to put on a patch. Patches will not stick well to cold or damp covers.

As always, please call the office if you have any questions or need any clarification on this information.

Retightening a Loose Cover

A question that we are often asked in the fall is “Do I put the cover on now or in the spring?”

As with most everything in life, there are two ways of looking at things and both sides have pros and cons. The answer is always the same though, “Put the cover on now since, in our opinion, the pros significantly outweigh the cons”

The pros of putting the cover on a new building in the fall include less frost penetration and a chance for ground moisture to start evaporating sooner than later. Less frost penetration means you will require much fewer heat units to get the structure operational in the spring (significant savings). Ground moisture is a challenge every new structure owner faces and allowing that extra time will significantly enhance the growing environment (much healthier).

The main con of putting the cover on in the fall is that with colder temperatures during installation, you will most likely be dealing with an excessively loose cover in the spring. This will be a task that needs to be dealt with to prevent premature cover wear. This will NOT be an ongoing issue. Once you deal with the loose cover, it will be good to go and add life to the cover.

Since cover tightening should not be undertaken until the temperature is consistently warm and warm enough It should therefore not be done until May and until the minimum temperature is over 20C. This requirement also means that you should use a temporary fix to carry you over until you can do a permanent fix.

Do not use rope (especially nylon) over a loose cover to temporarily tighten a cover unless you are facing an emergency. The abrasion factor will create new problems while you are dealing with the other problem. Seat belt material or ratchet straps make ideal fasteners for a loose cover.

If you do not have access to this and you know you will be dealing with a loose cover, you can call our office for some tarp scraps. These can be cut into 2” or 3” strips and then put over the cover at 12’ – 15’ intervals. It is important that the straps are lying flat on the cover before tightening.

When you have a warm calm day to tighten the cover, the job can be done in two stages. Since you must pull lengthwise, you can do one end on one day and the other end the next day. If you simply loosen one side and pull tight, you will have uneven tightening which still will have premature wear.

Once the two sides and one end are loose, pull toward the end and start refastening from the peak and work down. You are always working from the middle to the corner. If any wrinkles develop as you do this, always pull 90 degrees to the wrinkle. If the wind is still calm when you are finished with one end, you can then do the other end. It is important to remember that once you have started loosening the cover, you are committed to finishing the job. Having loose cover overnight is an invitation for trouble.

If anything in this article is not clear, please do not hesitate to contact us for clarification before you start.

Why Wait Until Spring?

In an ideal world, we would have nothing to do in the summer but have time to build the extra space we need for growing, storage or livestock housing requirements.

The reality is, that is seldom how things work, but many of the people that we talk to are intimidated by the possibility of building either in winter or when times are less then ideal.

When your Plan A won’t work there are actually many other options when it comes to scheduling putting up your building.

During late fall, winter or early spring, you will need to be a bit more selective as to the days you will be working, but it can be accommodated. It will not be as convenient, but that does not mean you have to do without that extra required space for the upcoming year.

The first thing we need from you is a bit of information to have a good understanding of the area you are working with. This will allow us to advise you on how to get a proper foundation in.

The phrase “there is no such thing as too many anchors” is even more applicable during inclement weather.

After that, you simply pick your days when you work outside or you simply work shorter days.

Unless you hit it very lucky with an abnormally perfect cover day, the reality is, is that the cover will not go on perfectly. This is ok since there are ways of overcoming this as well.

We have additional information on our website to work with temporarily securing a loose cover and the process of retightening a cover once warmer weather comes. We will have short videos explaining this process up shortly. Any possible inconvenience of having to do this retightening will be more than offset by the convenience of having that extra space now, rather then trying to accommodate building later.

We look forward to working though your challenges with you

Covering Options

Tarp Covering Instructions and Plastic Covering Instructions from the Assembly Guide can be downloaded at the underlined links

We offer three different types of standard coverings for your shelter solutions. We offer two types of 7.2 mil plastic and one type of 12 mil tarp. All of the covers can be fastened to our structures using wirelock, which is a flexible steel wire, bent into an aluminum channel on either end of the structure. This sheet is a brief overview of the options, and reasoning behind which we recommend for what application. We would be happy to answer any remaining questions you have.

The main difference between plastic and tarp beside the cost is the tear resistance. The 12 mil tarps are much more tear resistant than the plastic. The other key differences are price and life expectancy.

Plastic is the less expensive option of the covers that we offer, and is 7.2 mil and available in white or clear. It generally runs between 15¢-20¢/sqft depending on the size piece you require. Life expectancy is 6-7 years for single layer plastic or 6-8 years for double plastic. 7.2 mil plastic is also available with an anti-condensate and infrared coating for even greater drip control and heat savings (see below for more info on these). Clear plastic comes with a 5 year warranty against deterioration by the sun, and white has a 4 year warranty against deterioration by the sun.

Plants need clear plastic to grow and flourish. Clear plastic is also used for swimming pool covers, as both applications require sunshine to come through. The white plastic is best when more shade is required and is ideal for livestock. It is slightly cooler inside the structure than the clear option. White plastic is also recommended for swimming pool applications where more privacy is required, as well as covering RVs or other equipment where fading would be an issue.

For greenhouses, swimming pools or livestock, we usually recommend a double cover, with roll up sides and an inflator fan. Double covers extend the life expectancy of the cover, reduce heat loss by 30%, which helps maintain the temperature in the structure, as well as reduce condensation. The small inflator fan that we offer and include in the double cover package prices, uses very little electricity and is left running all the time to keep air between the two layers so you can reap the benefits of the double cover.

Plastic can also come with an anti condensate coating which will reduce or eliminate dripping in your greenhouse. This is a detergent additive which will eventually work itself out of the plastic. This happens more quickly if you have very high humidity levels in your greenhouse. The cost is roughly 10% more then regular 7.2 mil plastic and is only available in full rolls (100′ or more).

One other variation on greenhouse plastic is that with an IR (infra-red) coating. The cell structure that this plastic is made from is significantly different from the regular plastic. This gives the plastic a much softer texture and feel and contributes to it not being as strong as regular plastic. This is why we suggest that it only be used as the inside layer of a double plastic installation. The slight restriction for people with shorter greenhouses is that the IR plastic only comes in 100′ and 150′ rolls. You would either have a friend who can buy/use the extra or be prepared to “waste” some. There are also not quite as many choices for available widths as with regular plastic.

The IR plastic can reduce your heat loss by up to 20% over a regular double poly installation. Even though this plastic has a hazy look to it, the light transmission properties are actually a couple percentage points better. This plastic comes standard with an anti-condensate coating which means there will be less dripping in the greenhouse. All of these features make IR plastic an attractive alternative for many people in spite of the fact that the cost is roughly 20% more then regular plastic. This plastic does not have an inside or outside.
Please call Norm to specifically inquire about more information regarding these special coatings.

Over the last year, our plastic supplier has been transitioning to a heavier and stronger plastic film as a structure covering. 
6mil mil UV stabilized plastic has been around for a long time. This has now been changed to 7.2 mil. This is a stronger material which is expected to last longer as well. 
With the extra weight (20% increase) there is an extra cost but with the extra projected life span, the cost per year should be about the same. 
This applies to both the clear and the white.
The IR plastic (infrared) has also been upgraded to 7.2 mil. This is a heat saving plastic with anti drip properties. Since it is also now stronger, it is okay to use as an outside layer.
There are a lot of references on our website and in our literature to 6mil plastic. We are going to do our best to get these all changed as quickly as we can.
We thank you for your patience and understanding and above all we thank you for your interest and business!
Norm

Tarp is more expensive than the plastic options, but is also more durable if equipment, car doors or hay might bump against the cover frequently. It is a 12 mil three ply woven material, available in white. It generally runs between 65¢-85¢/sqft depending on the size piece you require. Life expectancy is 8-10 years for the white tarp.  White tarp a 6 year warranty against deterioration by the sun.

Our white tarp consists of a white, clear and white layer. The white tarp is less noticeable in the summer (than other colours) especially once it is not new and clean, if camouflaging is a concern. The white tarp also lets light in, making it easier to work inside the structure because it’s not as dark inside. Tarps are fully waterproof.

Our white plastic is available in widths of 24′, 32′, 40′ and 48′. Our clear plastic is available in widths of 25′, 28′, 32′, 36′, 40′, and 48′. Our white tarp is available in widths of 25′, 32′, and 36′. A full roll of plastic is considered as 100 or more feet and is sold in multiples of 5′ for length.

One of the less often used roof coverings is the twin wall polycarbonate. It is generally considered to be a 15 year material and it has extremely high impact resistance. The double wall with honey comb shaped flutes also gives it very good heat retention properties for a light transmitting material. It is considered as a rigid material but it does have enough flex to be installed on our gothic shaped structures. This material sells for $2.50 – $3.00 per square foot and the structure also requires some modification. This material can also be used as an end and/or door covering when durability and appearance are extra considerations.

Whichever covering option you choose, it’s important you receive all the benefits you require for your application. We are able to assist you in weighing the options further, as well as providing you a sample of each for your review. We look forward to helping you find the cover solution that best fits your needs.

Greenhouses 101: Climate and Air Effects on your Structure

You might be wondering, How does air volume affect the climate in a greenhouse? There also is the matter of air changes. What is the connection between shape and aerodynamics? You need to make sure it stays put.

There are 3 forces on every building which need to be considered if you want it to stay where you put it and in the shape you built it. There is down force (usually from snow build up), up lift (by wind) and lateral shift (both wind and snow). Mother nature is not restricted by lack of patience and will work away at any vulnerabilities in the structure, often without notice until it’s too late. There must not be any wiggle room that the weather can work on these vulnerabilities or things will come loose, unstable, and wear out faster..

There simply is no such thing as too many anchors. There are also various tips we can give you for ensuring that the plastic is tight enough to avoid wrinkling and flapping about, while balancing the issues of it being too tight. This can easily extend the life of your roof cover.

We also advise, especially this time of year, to cover the structure as soon as you can as the more snow you have on that spot which has to melt, the more moisture you will have in the building. The more moisture you have in the building the more condensation issues you will have. You want to give that ground the most time possible to dry up before you need to start using the building.

Contact us for more tips and considerations for building a structure that will stay put and have a longer life, we would be happy to help you.

Check out the presentation video and the rest of the series Norm spoke on Greenhouses 101 here. Stay tuned for the end of  January 2016 when he presents Greenhouses 202!