Storage containers and over sized concrete blocks are the economical solution for needing to elevate structures to create more storage capacity.
One consideration is when the product being stored does not lend itself to stacking, such as salt, sand or soil, there is the added dimension of outward push on the wall. Not only does the pile push outwardly, but an operator scooping the product will create even greater push.
Storage containers and over sized concrete blocks are the economical solution for such a situation. The weight and the stability which both the containers and blocks give, eliminates the need to anchor into the ground.
Containers are often simply put on the ground.
When going more then two layers with the blocks, there should be a concrete pad or special preparation of the soil to provide stability.
When choosing this foundation method, it is important to consider how and where the shelter will shed water and snow.
The top of the wall or container must be sealed to the possibility of moisture going inside.
The other thing that must be given proper consideration is that the shelter is able to deal with the extra wind load created by elevating the shelter this much.
In most of these installations, the wind load on a building is at least double of what it would be if mounted on the ground.
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Tagged cement blocks, equipment storage, hay storage, large storage, large structures, Multi Shelter Solutions, salt storage, shelter solutions, shipping containers, Storage, storage buildings, storage on blocks, storage on shipping containers, storage solutions, structures
One of the beauties of a Multi Shelter is the flexibility of the ends. By building the ends according to your needs your new building can and will truly prove useful.
It is important to remember that you need to be very careful when you have one end closed and the other end open.
When one end is closed you could potentially create a “parachute effect” (trapping air, creating lift) and put a lot of added stress on your building and especially the cover. Call us to discuss ways of minimizing this if your circumstance really would require one end open and one end closed.
When planning ends, it is important to have sufficient vertical framing to support wind load, doors, fans, etc. The spacing between the vertical framing will be determined by the amount of opening space required for the doors, etc.
It is important to remember that where ever possible, framing needs to go from top to bottom. In the event of large openings, the related framing will need to be doubled or tripled.
It is also important to remember that when you are covering your end with tarp, the top end of the cover is sandwiched between the wirelock channel and the hoop.
When you are covering with plastic, you will be fastening the top end inside the channel with the roof cover even if your roof is a double layer.
Please see the two pages in the installation guide for more information as well as photos: Ends & Door Options
Posted in How Tos
Tagged buiding ends on a shelter, building ends, building ends to a greenhouse, building ends to a storage building, doors, greenhouse, how do I build ends on a structure, ideas for the ends of a structure, Multi Shelter Solutions, multisheltersolutions.com, parachute, Plastic, shelter solutions, storage solutions, structure ends, tarps
We have previously covered the idea that while considering your structure choices you will have to weigh cost versus benefit or return. There is no area which this is more true then with cover choices. The wide range of cover choices include glass, polycarbonate, polyethylene and woven products. Within each of these products there is an equally great variety of choices. Along with each of these choices there is a huge variation in cost and function or performance.
At Multi Shelter Solutions we manufacture a wide range of shapes and sizes of predominantly plastic and tarp covered buildings. Because these buildings and shelters are narrower and have a reduced hoop spacing, we can use a lighter cover of the options available. The easiest way to get a comparative cost is to take the replacement cover cost divided by the years of expected life span to get an annual cover cost.
Our 6 mil plastic covers can be used as a single layer or double with air between for a 30% reduction in heat loss and to minimize condensation. These covers have a 4 year warranty against deterioration by the sun. Plastic is available in clear (greenhouses) and white (livestock shelters) and comes in various thicknesses. The average life span is 5 – 6 years for single layer and 6 – 8 years for double although 10 years is not uncommon.
Our 12mil white woven covers have a much greater tear resistance then plastic. This makes a good alternative when there will be some contact between product and cover. By providing shade, the white tarp is cooler in the summer. By still letting light in, it is warmer in the winter. Typical life span is 10 year. We offer a green tarp as well but due to the heat it absorbs, the life span is typically 3 years less then white.
You can see more info on these choices on our covering page or with the presentation video and the rest of the series Norm spoke on Greenhouses 101 here. Stay tuned for the end of January 2016 when he presents Greenhouses 202! As always, we are happy to help you with any of your questions regarding planning or options as you are considering your structure purchase.
Posted in Articles of Interest
Tagged challenges, choices, Customize, Greenhouses 101, installing, Multi Shelter Solutions, Plastic, shelter solutions, Shelters, Storage, storage buildings, storage solutions, tarp cover
The location and orientation of a structure are two different things that need to be given careful thought to since the consequences are so long lasting. The cost of making changes after the fact are significant and often make it impossible. You should never put a structure somewhere simply because the area is not good for anything else. Location is more about what you need and orientation has to do with what the structure needs to perform well.
Location has to do with accessibility to power, water and handling the product that the structure shelters. If bringing in water, electricity or a driveway is too costly for the budget at present, you will have to start weighing cost versus benefit. This can only be accurately done if you understand the requirements, choices and consequences. Drainage, ventilation and light requirements are also important considerations which change from location to location.
Orientation has to do with a structure being north/south, east/west, or somewhere in between. This will have an impact on ventilation, light, snow shedding and lay of the land. For all of these things you need to have a good handle on what the structure needs to perform well. A structure must be level from side to side to shed snow well but can have some slope from end to end. Ventilation is easier when a structure is inline with the prevailing winds but you do get more sunshine in the building if it is north/south.
Check out the presentation video and the rest of the series Norm spoke on Greenhouses 101 here. Stay tuned for the end of January 2016 when he presents Greenhouses 202!
Posted in Articles of Interest, How Tos
Tagged accessibility, choices, consequences, greenhouses, Location, Multi Shelter Solutions, Orientation, prevailing winds, requirements, Shelters, snow shedding, storage buildings, storage solutions, structure performance, structures, ventilation
**Originally Published May 5/15**
There are a number of instances where a cover will need to be installed in less than ideal conditions. This can be either be on a windy day or in the cold (-10C or worse) and the job simply can not wait. This will almost invariably lead to a situation where the cover will need to be re-tightened on a warmer and/or calmer day.
The lifespan of a cover can very quickly be reduced if it is repeatedly flapping in the hard wind. A very effective, temporary fix to give you more time to do the job right, is to put ropes or straps over the building. A 1” or 2” wide seat belt type material is ideal but likely you will need to settle for a soft, marine grade rope instead. Using nylon rope is almost worse then using nothing because of the abrasion factor.
The idea is to put a strap or rope between pairs of hoops every 12’ to 16’ and pull as tight as you can. Use nails or eye bolts on your base as the spot for securing the ropes or straps. If your cover is especially loose, it is best to install each of the ropes or straps snugly first. Then go back and tighten them as tight as you can. This will prevent you from pulling too much in one spot.